Africa

I Can See Spain From My Hotel

Literally. While still in Casablanca, I created this title as a joke, OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAknowing that Tangier is a ferry ride away from Spain and channeling Tina Fey’s portrayal of Sarah Palin. But  we didn’t realize how close. When we entered our hotel room after the 5-hour train ride north, we were amazed; I can see electricity windmills dotting the Andalucian coast (not Don Quixote, however).

Tangier has an extremely shady 20th century history, borne of its time as an international zone. Writers, spies, artists and pirates from around the world have all spent time here. But that’s the past of Tangier (though the artists and writers do still come). Now, it’s a weekend vacation spot for Spaniards and Moroccans alike, and the main boulevard along the beach is full of high-rise hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs. The long corniche (boardwalk) runs the entire 2km length of downtown along a sandy beach, inviting visitors to stroll. Yet, Tangier is small enough that with good feet, enough hours and some self-discipline, you could go everywhere worth going in a day. Since I have a week, I can slow down and explore more thoroughly. …

Casablanca, Architecture Edition II

We begin at Mahkama du Pacha (Palace of the General), a building in Quartier Habous which is pretty nondescript on the outside, but beautiful on the inside. Next we move to the medina. Then a couple of photos of cattle egrets for the birders out there, sitting right above me on a tree-lined street by the Parc de la Ligue Arabe. Another building nearby, and finally some shots of the downtown area along Blvd Mohammed V, famous for its protectorate-era Art Deco design. Hover over the images to see the captions. Click on any photo to view them in slideshow format.

Casablanca, Architecture Edition I

The mosque was constructed by over 6,000 craftsmen, took 6 years to build, and it features the tallest minaret in the world at 689 feet tall. This mosque may be the most beautiful building I have ever seen. Hover over the images to see the captions. Click on any photo to view them in slideshow format.

Here’s Looking At You, Kid

In my last post, I mentioned how Islam is woven into the fabric of life here. Back in the U.S., some people view the call to prayer 5 times per day as a ridiculously stringent requirement. But if you were a devout practitioner of any religion, how great would it be if 5 times a day, you were reminded to think of God for a few minutes? Here’s what I’ve seen in the cities of Morocco so far: When the calls of the imams go out (and many mosques have them so you hear it everywhere), those who want to pray for a few minutes go somewhere private to do so. Those who don’t work might take time go to the mosque if they want. But many people ignore the call; you can’t always just drop everything to pray at a moment’s notice.
On Fridays more people go to the mosque, or at least take time to pray. Yvonne was teaching a workshop last Friday and 2 women in the group went missing after lunch. They had gone to pray and everyone had to wait for 30 minutes until they got back, which was completely acceptable to the other participants.
We have now been in Casablanca for 6 days and I have pretty much seen everything a tourist would be interested in seeing. This city reminds me of of growing up in Manhattan, when New York was still dirty, polluted and full of dangerous traffic. …

Nothing Is Free

As I write, I am on the train to Casablanca, where we will spend the next week. The rules around the private car in which Yvonne will be traveling prohibit me from joining her. So I am spending the hour-long ride writing. I bought a $7 first-class ticket and this cabin is as nice as anything you’d find in the U.S.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Sometimes you find yourself in the right place at the right time 🙂

This morning I went back to the kings’ mausoleum to get a couple of better photos. One of the great things about this trip is that I have so much time and flexibility. I’ve now been there 3 times! It is an extraordinarily beautiful place. …

First Impressions

We’ve been in Rabat for 2 days now, still adjusting to the 8-hour time difference. Yesterday, we had a pleasant all-day walking adventure.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Extremes: Young women in jeans and a conservative couple in djelaba and burkha

One thing I’ve been struck by is the contrasts in the ways women dress. One might see a woman in a kaftan and hijab, walking by another woman in torn jeans and long, flowing hair. Many women wear a hijab with western clothes. And we see them socializing together, not separately. I find myself wondering if there is a deeper cultural significance than just how strictly they practice Islam. Or maybe I just have preconceptions to let go of. Yvonne talks about culture being like an iceberg: What is visible is a very small part of it. …

Waiting For Rabat

 
7744635Days ran into months as we awaited the final signing of contracts before travel arrangements could be made, about a year after Yvonne first applied for this project. But now, it’s really happening! We are leaving for Morocco for 2 months, on April 18!
Yvonne is nervous about how to successfully train new career advisors at 3 Moroccan universities, collectively serving a few hundred thousand students at any given time. I am nervous about how I’m going to avoid feeling obligated to buy a really expensive fez, in some shop I never would have entered had the proprietor not invited me in for a cup of “the best mint tea you’ll find in all of Marrakesh.”
At least, that’s what I keep reading can happen. …

Subscribe to My Travel Blog!

Enter your email address below to subscribe to my travel blog via email.

This subscription ONLY sends you travel-related posts. To join my Voices of the Grieving Heart mailing list (NO travel posts), sign up at the bottom of the page instead.

More Travel Posts

Destinations